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Creating your first shirt with our AI : back darts

Back Darts

Are you creating your first LE CHEMISEUR® shirt using our AI sizing system and wondering whether to add or remove back darts? This page is for you.

Shirt without darts

Shirt with darts

Darts are seams sewn into the back of the shirt that help remove excess fabric and create a closer fit through the back. Our darts have a depth of approximately 1.5 cm.

Darts and waist width are independent. Darts only move the side seams backwards; they do not change the final width of the shirt. For example, if you order a 50 cm waist with darts, we cut 53 cm of fabric, add the darts, and end up at the requested 50 cm.

When should I adjust the darts?

🏋 V-shaped build

Back darts can help balance a V-shaped silhouette by moving the side seams slightly towards the back, creating a cleaner profile.

In most cases, our AI sizing system will already have recommended darts if they are appropriate for your body shape.

🛝 Hollow back / rounded stomach

Back darts can help the shirt follow the natural curve of the lower back and may improve the overall fit.

From collar size 48 onwards, we automatically switch to our Big & Tall pattern. In this pattern, shoulder pleats replace traditional darts, as the side seams are already positioned further towards the back.

💖 Personal preference

Ultimately, the choice is yours.

Some customers prefer shirts without darts, particularly on heavier fabrics such as flannel or on very casual shirts.

Updated on: 10/06/2026