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Should I add darts to my shirt ?

Do you need darts on your shirt ?

Shirt without darts

Shirt with darts

Back darts are seams sewn into the back of the shirt that help absorb excess fabric and create a closer fit through the back. Our darts have a depth of approximately 1.5 cm.

Darts and waist taper are independent. Darts only affect the position of the side seams and do not change the final waist measurement of the shirt. For example, if you order a shirt with a 50 cm waist and choose darts, we initially cut 53 cm of fabric. The darts then absorb approximately 3 cm, resulting in the requested 50 cm finished waist width.

LE CHEMISEUR® tips

🏋 V-shaped or athletic builds

Back darts are generally recommended for V-shaped or athletic builds. By shifting the side seams slightly towards the back, they help create a cleaner silhouette and avoid an exaggerated "hourglass" effect.

As a rule of thumb, darts are often beneficial when the difference between the chest and waist measurements exceeds 6 to 7 cm.

🛝 Hollow back / rounded stomach

Back darts help the shirt follow the natural curve of the lower back and can improve overall comfort and appearance.

From collar size 48 onwards, you automatically benefit from our Big & Tall pattern. In this case, traditional darts are no longer necessary because the entire cut is adapted to your body shape, with the side seams positioned further towards the back.

👔 Plus size men

For collar sizes of 48 cm and above, our Big & Tall pattern is automatically applied.

Designed with comfort pleats in the upper back and a revised body shape, it eliminates the need for traditional darts while maintaining an elegant silhouette.

💖 Personal preference

Ultimately, the choice is yours.

Some customers prefer shirts without darts, especially on thicker fabrics such as velvet or on more casual fabrics such as linen.

Updated on: 10/06/2026