Adding (or not) darts to a shirt
You already own a LE CHEMISEUR® shirt and would like to add or remove back darts? This page is for you.
Darts are seams sewn into the back to remove excess fabric so the shirt follows the curve of your spine. Ours are about 1.5 cm deep.
Darts and waist taper are independent. They only help position the side seams; the finished width stays the same. Example : for a 50 cm waist with darts we cut 53 cm, add the darts, and finish at 50 cm.
Add darts to avoid the hour-glass look by moving the side seams back. We generally recommend darts as soon as the chest – waist difference exceeds 5-6 cm.
Darts help the fabric hug the small of your back. From collar size 48 upwards you automatically switch to our Big & Tall pattern: shoulder pleats replace classic darts because the side seams are already farther back.
Choose according to taste. Some clients avoid darts on thick fabrics (e.g. velvet) or on very casual fabrics such as linen shirts.
| Shirt without darts | Shirt with darts |
|---|---|
 |  |
Darts are seams sewn into the back to remove excess fabric so the shirt follows the curve of your spine. Ours are about 1.5 cm deep.
Darts and waist taper are independent. They only help position the side seams; the finished width stays the same. Example : for a 50 cm waist with darts we cut 53 cm, add the darts, and finish at 50 cm.
LE CHEMISEUR® tips
🏋 V-shaped or athletic builds
Add darts to avoid the hour-glass look by moving the side seams back. We generally recommend darts as soon as the chest – waist difference exceeds 5-6 cm.
🛝 Hollow back / rounded stomach
Darts help the fabric hug the small of your back. From collar size 48 upwards you automatically switch to our Big & Tall pattern: shoulder pleats replace classic darts because the side seams are already farther back.
💖 Personal preference
Choose according to taste. Some clients avoid darts on thick fabrics (e.g. velvet) or on very casual fabrics such as linen shirts.
Updated on: 12/05/2025
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